ACI Exteriors

Quality Control

Best practices for roofing and siding installations

Most Common Customer Complaints

Gutters damaged from ladders

Why: Ladder pressure can dent, scratch, or crush gutters, especially aluminum.
What to Do: Use standoffs or stabilizers on every ladder setup. Avoid leaning ladders directly on gutters or soft fascia. We will provide a ladder stabilizer if needed

Shingle Tear-Off Damage

Scuff marks, tar stains, broken windows, and dents from old shingles

Why: When old shingles are ripped and tossed, they can leave black stains, dents, or even break things like gutters, decking, or AC units. Especially in heat—those shingles are pliable and can smear asphalt all over.
What to Do:

Never throw shingles freely off the roof—slide into trailer, not onto lawn or hard surfaces.

Use designated drop zones with plywood or tarps underneath.

Protect driveways, decks, and concrete pads—no direct hits.

If it stains or marks anything, it gets cleaned before leaving the job. Period.

Trash and Nails

Why: Nails in the grass are a HUGE problem. Stray nails, wrappers, and debris makes the jobsite look messy and unsafe.

What to Do:

- Use a magnetic sweeper around the home and driveway—twice: once mid-job, once at final cleanup.

- Bag all trash securely—do not bury in landscaping.

- Check gutters for debris and remove visible trash.

Oil Stains in the Driveway

Why: Leaking trucks or trailers leave oil spots that ruin curb appeal.

What to Do:

- Do not park on customer driveways unless necessary.

- Place drip mats under trailers and trucks if parked for long durations.

Take photos of existing ice & water, damaged plywood, and flashing you replace

Why: we need photos of the existing ice and water shield before you tear it off and any damaged plywood for insurance purposes

What to Do:

- take photos of any damaged plywood, existing ice and water shield, or flashing that you have to replace and send it into Aci

Ridge Vent Installation

- Leave 6 inches uncut at both ends of the ridge to prevent wind-driven rain from entering.

- Extend the ridge vent to within 6 inches of each gable end—do not leave large gaps or short runs.

- Do not install ridge vent over unvented or non-attic areas such as vaulted ceilings or firewalls.

- Only install ridge vent where proper soffit (intake) ventilation exists to ensure balanced airflow.

- Secure all fasteners firmly without crushing the vent or overdriving nails.

- Use connectors or overlaps to tightly join multiple vent sections—no open seams.

- Space ridge cap nails properly—usually 10" on center and 1" above the exposed shingle edge.

- Seal off open ends of the vent to prevent pests or debris from entering.

- Visually confirm that ridge vents are continuous and fully aligned—no buckling or waves.

- Take photos of completed ridge vent installation showing termination near gable ends and overall straightness.

- Do not install ridge vent if the roof has turbine vents, power vents, or gable vents unless those systems are removed or disabled.

Ice & Water Installation

General Installation Standards

- Install on all roof slopes below 4:12, or wherever required by code or climate.

- Mandatory in ice dam regions at all eaves, valleys, and other critical leak-prone areas.

- Overlap horizontal edges by at least 6 inches and vertical laps by at least 12 inches.

- The membrane must be fully adhered with no wrinkles, voids, or air pockets.

- Do not stretch the membrane during installation—it may retract and expose decking.

Eaves (Ice Dam Protection)

- Extend the membrane from the eave up the roof a minimum of 24 inches past the interior heated wall line (typically requires two courses).

- Install flush with the eave edge and beneath the metal drip edge at the eaves.

- If installing drip edge at the rakes, apply it over the leak barrier.

Valleys

- Center the membrane in the valley, extending it at least 18 inches on each side of the valley centerline.

- Avoid nailing in the center of the valley. All fasteners must be outside the membrane edge.

- The membrane should be the first layer installed in the valley, regardless of whether you're using metal flashing or shingle-over methods.

Around Roof Penetrations

- Use a butterfly or picture-frame cut to wrap around pipes and vents.

- Slit the membrane and slide it over the pipe. Patch additional areas as needed for full coverage.

- Seal with roofing-grade sealant beneath the pipe boot or collar—not over the top of the membrane.

Skylights and Chimneys

- Extend the membrane a minimum of 6 inches up vertical walls and transitions.

- Combine with step flashing—membrane alone is not sufficient.

- Always install membrane beneath metal flashings, not over them.

Best Practices

- Always install membrane starting from the lowest point and work upslope.

- Keep the membrane clean and dry during application—dust and moisture will prevent full adhesion.

- Store rolls in a warm area or allow them to heat in the sun before use in cold weather. Membranes become stiff and difficult to work with below 40°F.

- Never install over wet or damp decking. Trapped moisture can lead to blistering or delamination.

Installation Tips Per GAF

SHINGLE INSTALLATION CHECKPOINTS

Follow proper nailing zones: All fasteners must be placed within the shingle's designated nailing area—not above the sealant line .

Use the correct number of nails per shingle: Typically 4–6, depending on slope and manufacturer specs .

Avoid overdriven or underdriven nails: Overdriven nails can cut through shingles; underdriven nails won’t hold them securely .

Use corrosion-resistant nails: Galvanized or stainless steel recommended to prevent rust and maintain wind resistance .

Stagger your shingle joints: Maintain proper offset to avoid water pathways from coursing directly down the seams .

FLASHING & ROOF PENETRATIONS

Install flashing at all roof-to-wall transitions: Step flashing required with each course of shingles—no continuous flashing allowed .

Kickout flashing is mandatory where a roof terminates into a wall: Directs water away from siding and prevents rot .

Replace all plumbing pipe boots: Re-using old flashing is a warranty killer—boots must be snug and sealed .

Chimneys require both step flashing and a back pan: Counterflashing should be embedded or reglet-cut into mortar .

Don’t block or reduce attic ventilation when replacing ridge caps or exhaust vents .

WATER MANAGEMENT

Drip edge must be used at eaves and rakes: Installed under underlayment at eaves, over underlayment at rakes .

Install ice and water barrier in valleys and eaves: Required in cold climates or as specified by code .

Open valleys must have proper metal flashing or reinforced underlayment: Keep fasteners out of valley centerlines .

Proper underlayment overlap and fastening: Must lap correctly (min 2") and be nailed per spec—not overly sparse .

TEAR-OFF & CLEAN-UP PROTOCOL

Do not damage siding, gutters, decks, or driveways when removing old shingles: Use controlled drop zones and surface protection.

Protect softscape and HVAC units: Cover bushes, ACs, and windows with breathable tarps.

Remove debris from gutters and valleys: No granules or nails left behind.

Use a magnetic sweeper on all accessible areas—twice: Especially driveways and walkways.

Zero tolerance for trash left behind: Water bottles, shingle wrappers, and cigarette butts are grounds for immediate correction.